Himalaya Fall 2016: Controversy on Manaslu - 150 Summit without Actually Reaching the Top

The climbing season on Manaslu may be long over, but the 8163-meter (26,781 ft) mountain continues to garner headlines thanks to this article from The Himalayan times. The story says that of the 150 climbers who summited the mountain this year, only a fraction actually reached the true summit, which is typically defined as the highest point on the mountain. That's because Manaslu's highest point is incredibly dangerous to reach, which calls into question whether or not you actually did get the summit after all.

Those in the know in the mountaineering world understand that there is a narrow ridge that is covered in a snow cornice that runs out to the actual summit of the mountain. That ridge is unstable and difficult to cross, particularly in high winds or other poor weather conditions. As a result, about 90% of the climbers this season turned back approximately 5 to 10 meters below the actual top of the mountain, but still claimed a full summit anyway. This has sparked some debate as to whether or not those claims are actually true.

In writing about a slew of climbing expeditions this fall, Alan Arnette also weighed in on the topic, sharing some of his own experiences. He also reminds us that a Japanese climber perished on Manaslu this year when he fell through the cornice while trying to reach the true summit. That's an indication of just how dangerous the final approach to the top truly is. Although as Alan points out via a quote from Himex boss Russel Brice, the blame is square placed on the team that was put in charge of fixing the ropes to the summit, but failed to complete the final 20 meters, which directly led to this fatality a few weeks back.


When considering where to actually give credit to someone for making the summit on Manaslu, it is important to also note that the incredibly narrow approach to the top serves as a significant bottle-neck for those going up and coming down. It would literally take hours for everyone to shuffle across the approach ridge, even if it were completely safe. That would leave climbers standing in line at the top of the mountain while they waited their turn, leaving them exposed to the elements the entire time. Most of the operators on Manaslu aren't willing to put their clients through that kind of difficulty, so they certify summits at the lower point on the mountain.

On the other hand, getting credit for a summit has always been about reaching the highest point. To take that away from experience doesn't seem completely fair either. Yes, it would mean fewer people climbing Manaslu if they actually had to negotiate that tough final portion of the ascent, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing either. There is a part of me that feels that if you want to actually receive a summit certificate you should have to reach the actual true summit to get credit. Anything else, just comes up short. It is up to the climbers themselves if they actually want to complete those final 20 meters or play it safe and turn back below that point. But if they don't get all the way up, the wouldn't earn full credit either.

Obviously this is a tough call. For safety sake, I understand why they turn back. But for the pure mountaineering aspects of it, they should actually touch the highest point in my opinion.

What do you think? Share your thoughts in the comments section below.

Video: Unclimbed - Reaching the Summit in the Himalaya (Part 7)

If you've been watching the fantastic series of "Unclimbed" videos from Discovery Canada, you'll definitely want to catch this latest episode. In this latest installment of the mountaineering series the team of Gabriel Filippi, Elia Saikaly, and Pasang Kaji Sherpa are reunited in Kathmandu before setting out to the Himalaya to the first ascent of several unclimbed peaks. But before they go, they must face down a mountaineering legend who has never summited a single peak – the indomitable Miss Elizabeth Hawley.

Donations to the Himalayan Stove Project Doubled Through Giving Tuesday

I know it may be hard to believe, but the holiday season isn't as far off as we'd like to think it is. With Halloween just a few days off, and Thanksgiving closely rapidly behind it, the busy shopping period will be on us before we know it. But as you gear up for Black Friday and Cyber-Monday, there is another day that follows along closely that you should also keep in mind. That's "Giving Tuesday" which is when we take a step away from all of the consumerism and decide to give a little back to those around us instead. And this year, Giving Tuesday is special for another reason too.

One of my favorite nonprofits is the Himalayan Stove Project, an organization that is replacing old, inefficient, and dangerous cookstoves in Nepal with clean burning, healthier models. Over the past few years, the HSP has distributed and installed more than 3000 stoves, impacting the lives of thousands of people as a result. Many of the families that have received these stoves have seen their lives transformed. The air in their homes is cleaner than ever, and they can now enjoy a meal indoors together, often for the very first time. In short, the Himalayan Stove Project is having a direct, and measurable, impact on the quality of life for the people that it helps, which is something I appreciate and admire greatly.

Heading into the holidays we can all do something to help the HSP and see our contributions to the program stretch even further. Between now and Giving Tuesday – November 29, 2016 – all donations to the project will automatically be doubled thanks to a generous anonymous supporter. That means that if you give $50, the HSP will receive $100. No donation, no matter how big or small, is exempt, which makes this the perfect time to contribute to the cause.

I personally love what the Himalayan Stove Project does for a number of personal reasons. The fact that the not-for-profit is having such a dramatic effect on the lives of the people it helps is inspiring to say the least. There are a lot of other foundations like this one that aspire to help people in the developing parts of the world, but they often struggle to actually deliver on their promise. That isn't so with the HSP, which has done a wonderful job of staying focused on its mission.

The other reason I'm a fan of the Himalayan Stove Project is that it is helping people who live in Nepal, a country that I dearly love. It is easily one of the most beautiful places I've ever been, and the people there are incredibly warm and generous, despite the fact that they often have little of their own. It is a place that has left its mark on everyone that has visited it, and it is understandable why those of us who have been there would like to have a positive impact on their lives.

If you're looking for a great charity to contribute to this year, the Himalayan Stove Project is a fantastic option. Take a look at the HSP website to learn more, and click here to donate to the cause. Remember, anything you give between now and November 29 will be doubled.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Summit Push Begins on Ama Dablam

The fall climbing season on the 8000-meter peaks in the Himalaya are all but over, but there is still plenty of action taking place in Nepal on other mountains. Most of the ongoing expeditions are small and relatively off the radar, with some squarely focused on putting up the first ascents on several unclimbed peaks. But, one popular mountain is about to get extremely busy as a large number of climbers launch their summit push.

Yesterday, the rope-fixing Sherpas on Ama Dablam reached the summit after waiting out poor weather conditions all of last week. The team of six mountain guides worked from Camp 2 on the mountain all the way to the 6812-meter (22,349 ft) summit in a single push, clearing the way for commercial teams that have been waiting in the wings. Now, with the ropes installed, it looks like there will be a mass summit push will begin in the next few days.

According to The Himalayan Times, more than 400 climbers will now move up from Base Camp to get into position to reach the summit. 200 of those alpinists are foreign climbers, while the others mostly consist of guides, high altitude porters, and the like. 

It is unclear at this time exactly when the summit push will be completed, but with good weather in the forecast it seems like it should take place within the next few days. Unlike expeditions on other big Himalayan peaks, it doesn't take weeks to acclimatize on Ama Dablam, nor does it take numerous days to top out. Once the push begins, the summit should be very busy  a few days later. 

Ama Dablam is one of the most distinct mountains in the Khumbu Valley, with climbers and trekkers passing by on their way to Everest Base Camp. The beautiful peak is a good place for climbers to get valuable experience for what it is like to climb in the Himalaya prior to moving on to one of the 8000-meter peaks. For my money, it is still one of the most beautiful mountains that I have ever personally seen with my own eyes, creating a very memorable view on the trail to EBC.

Good luck to everyone heading up the mountain in the next few days. Get up and down safely and quickly, and enjoy the walk. 

Video: Base Jumper Sets New World Record by Leaping Off Cho Oyu

Standing 8188 meters (26,684 ft) in height, Cho Oyu is the 6th highest peak in the world, and a popular climbing destination during the fall season in the Himalaya. A few weeks back, climber/BASE jumper Valery Rozov went up the mountain in an attempt to fly off the summit. He didn't quite make it to the top, but he did manage to don his wingsuit and leap from 7700 meters (25,262 ft), setting a new world record in the process. You can learn about his expedition, and see his flight in the video below.

Everest Air Premieres Tonight and I've Seen the First Episode

The Travel Channel officially debuts its much anticipated new show Everest Air tonight, broadcasting the first episode of the six-part series starting at 10 PM Eastern/9 PM Central time. The show promises to take viewers to Nepal to give them a first-hand look at helicopter medical rescue operations in the Khumbu Valley near Mt. Everest. It was shot on location there this past spring.

Over the past several weeks you've read my post announcing the show as well as my interview with Jeff Evans, one of the key players on the program and an emergency first responder who helps provide medical aid to climbers, Sherpas, and a variety of other people living in the mountains of Nepal. Naturally, after speaking with Jeff and receiving a number of press releases from the Travel Channel regarding Everest Air, I've been anxious to see how the show turned out. Now, after getting the chance to watch the first episode, I can assure you that it lives up to its billing as a realistic depiction of life in the Khumbu, and what it is like to conduct a rescue above 20,000 feet (6096 meters)

One of my biggest concerns when ever there is a reality show based around Everest is that the climbing scene there will be exploited for ratings. We've seen it time and again on various networks, which only seem to focus on the relatively few deaths that occur on the mountain each year, rather than the hundreds of successful summits. There have even been reports of another network filming on the mountain this past spring that was taking a similar approach. I'm happy to say that Everest Air does not fall into this category and while watching the show I didn't feel like it felt exploitative at all. 

The first episode does a good job of introducing the viewer to the primary characters that we'll be following over the next six week, of which Jeff Evans is only one. We also meet other medics, communications coordinators, helicopter pilots, and support crew that all play a vital role in running the air rescue operations and saving lives on Everest and throughout the Khumbu Valley. The team isn't there just to rescue wealthy western climbers, but to lend a hand to the Nepali people too. In fact, some of the more interesting and dramatic medical emergencies revolve around the Sherpas who live and work in the shadow of the tallest mountain on Earth.

Having been to Everest Base Camp it was a lot of fun for me to see some of the more memorable landscapes throughout the region. The crew that filmed the show never appear on camera, but they are some of the unsung heroes of the show for sure. The Himalaya look impressive on screen and while the production team was there to film the med team in action, there is still plenty of eye-candy in the form of jaw-dropping scenery too.  

Everest Air gets off to a fast start, with some daring operations by the helicopter pilots and the rescue squad in the first episode. I don't want to spoil too many of the details, but I can tell you that each of the missions are a good indication of what the remaining episodes will be like. You'll get a first hand look at the effects of altitude sickness, as well as some of the other injuries and afflictions that anyone living in – or visiting – the Khumbu Valley face. Seeing some of the symptoms of pulmonary and cerebral edema manifest in patients is highly sobering, and will help you gain even more respect for the men and women who attempt to climb the big mountains. It'll also provide plenty of respect for Jeff and his team as they deal with the consequences too. 

Whether you're someone who follows the Everest climbing scene closely each year, or just have a passing interest in the Himalaya in general, you're likely to really enjoy Everest Air. But beyond that, if you want to see a real-life drama, played out on a massive and grand stage, this show will keep you riveted as well. This is true reality TV, where the decisions that are made are literally a matter of life and death. It is hard to top true human drama, and this show has that in spades. 

Check out the preview for Everest Air below, and catch the show starting tonight at 10:00 PM Eastern time. 

Himalaya Fall 2016: Kuriki Calls it Quits on Everest, Vows to Return

One of the more interesting expeditions of the fall climbing season in the Himalaya has come to an end. Japanese alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki has announced that he is leaving Mt. Everest and will return home, bringing an end to his latest attempt to summit that mountain solo and unsupported.

You may recall that Kuriki launched a summit bid on the North Side of Everest on October 6, only to be turned back a couple of days later due to deep snow high up on the mountain. In that attempt, he made it as high as 7400 meters (24,278 ft) and was preparing for the final push to the top, but the route was covered in snow that came up to his waist. That heavy snow made it impossible to break trail on his own, so he wisely decided to descend back to Base Camp to reassess his options.

After spending a few days back in BC watching the mountain and regaining his strength, Kuriki took a look at the weather forecast and found it to be very unfavorable. The jet stream was moving over the summit of the mountain, making it impossible to summit for the foreseeable future. He realized that his chances of climbing Everest in 2016 were coming to an end, and his home team reports that he broke down in tears with the realization.

This was Nobu's sixth attempt at climbing Everest solo in the fall, and apparently it won't be his last. He has already said that he plans on returning next year to give it another go, and considering the level of determination we've seen out of him in the past, I would expect to see him back on the mountain again next year if at all possible.

Kuriki is an enormously popular figure in his home country, and in order to fund this expedition he launched a very successful crowdfunding campaign. Whether or not he can do that again remains to be seen, but part of the disappointment he has felt in not completing the expedition comes from the feeling of disappointing all of those who have supported him. As we all know however, mountaineering is not an exact science, and conditions have to be just right to be successful. Particularly on a peak like Everest when you are completely alone. Something tells me that his supporters understand this as well, and will be willing to back him again in the future.

To my knowledge this is the last expedition taking place on an 8000-meter peak in the Himalaya at the moment, although there may be a few smaller teams that have slipped below my radar. There are some ongoing climbs on 6000 and 7000 meters peaks however, so stay tuned for more updates as they happen.

Video: Unclimbed - Reaching the Summit in the Himalaya (Part 6)

Discovery Canada has released another episode of their fantastic series of mountaineering videos entitled Unclimbed. If you've been following along with the series, you know that it has been following climbers Gabriel Filippi and Elia Saikaly as they prepare to attempt the first ascent of several unclimbed peaks in Nepal. Up until now however, we've seen very little of the third member of the team – Pasang Kaji Sherpa. That changes with this episode however, as we are introduced to Kaji and learn more about his way of life. Born and raised in the big mountains, he is an expert mountaineer, and a crucial part of the team. Learn more in the clip below.

Will Ueli Steck Attempt Everest-Lhotse Traverse in Spring of 2017?

When it comes to daring climbing expeditions in the big mountains, Ueli Steck always seems to be planning something interesting. Over the years, the Swiss climber has built an impressive reputation for going fast and light in both the Alps and the Himalaya. So, naturally when he shares plans for an upcoming expedition, it is usually something of interest to the mountaineering community. Ueli did just that in a recent interview with Stefan Nestler for his adventure sports blog.

Recently, Nestler caught up with Steck at the International Mountain Summit in the Dolomite mountains of Italy. They talked about what Ueli has been up to recently, which included a climb on Shivling in India to celebrate his 40th birthday. On that expedition he traveled with his wife, and kept the climb low-key, not even alerting media to their plans. While they were there, they also met and shared Base Camp with Polish climbers Grzegorz Kukurowski and Lukasz Chrzanowski, who ended up later perishing on that mountain.

In the interview, Ueli also talks about what it is like getting older, and that while he can still go fast ni the mountains, he finds that it takes him longer to rest and recover. He's also learned that he doesn't necessarily want to take the big risks that he has in the past, although he estimates that he has another five years of big expeditions ahead of him.

But perhaps the most interesting aspect of the story is when Nestler asks him about his plans for the future. Steck says that his next project is another attempt on making the Everest-Lhotse traverse which would involve a summit of the tallest mountain on the planet, followed by a daring crossing of the ridge that links it to its neighbor Lhotse, where he would nab another summit along the way. "The Swiss Machine" doesn't give any indication of exactly when he'll give this expedition a go, but it seems that it could be on his radar for the spring 2017 climbing season in the Himalaya. Naturally, he'll be making the traverse and both summits without oxygen.

Ueli tells Stefan that he'll make the climb as part of a two-man team, with only Tenji Sherpa joining him on the expedition. Tenji was with him in 2012 when Ueli summited Everest, and the two have enjoyed several other expeditions in the Himalaya together as well.

The 2016 fall climbing season isn't completely over just yet, but we already have something to potentially start looking forward to in 2017. As always with Ueli, it should be a fun expedition to follow. Stay tuned.

Video: Unclimbed - Reaching the Summit in the Himalaya (Part 5)

Discovery Channel Canada has released the latest episode of its Unclimbed series, which follows mountaineers Gabriel Filippi, Elia Saikaly, and Pasang Kaji Sherpa as they attempt to make several first ascents in the Himalaya this fall. In this episode, Gabriel and Elia travel to Peru to continue their preparation for the challenges they'll face in Nepal. This training expedition is overshadowed a bit by a previous attempt in the Andes, with the ghosts of that past climb impacting their current situation. If you've been watching this ongoing series, you'll definitely want to catch up with the team in this latest installment.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Commercial Expeditions Head Home, Missing Climber on Manaslu

I'm back from Spain and will resume a typical posting schedule for the foreseeable future now. As I ramp up the content once again here at The Adventure Blog, I felt it was fitting to check in with the fall climbing season in the Himalaya, which is still ongoing but winding down rapidly now. While I was away, there was some news updates to report, although few summits have taken place during that time.

Now that mid-October has arrived, the commercial squad in the Himalaya this fall have pretty much wrapped up their operations and headed home. Prior to my departure for Majorca, most of the busy mountains – including Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, and Dhaulagiri – had seen the bulk of their summits for the season with the larger squads packing up their gear and heading home. Now, they are all but abandoned until spring, when more climbers will arrive to test their skills and resolve on each of those peaks.

Of course, the season isn't quite over yet, and there are a few ongoing expeditions that we'll continue to keep an eye on. For instance, Japanese climber Nobukazo Kuriki is still on Mt. Everest and hoping to pull of a solo summit of that peak before he heads home. When last we checked in on him, he had abandoned a summit push due to heavy snow on the mountain, but had returned to Base Camp to gather his strength for another go. Last week, after regaining some energy, he headed back up to Camp 1 only to find that the winds were too strong to allow a safe ascent up the mountain. He is now back in BC and waiting for conditions to improve. The weather window will start to close soon however, particularly as November draws closer. For now though, Nobu is remaining patient and looking for opportunities to summit, despite very heavy snows.

Sadly, there were a few tragic stories to report from the past week as well. On Manaslu, for instance, a 24-year old Japanese climber by the name of Hirotaka Onodera went missing on October 7 after reaching the summit on that mountain. Reportedly, he topped out along with his team leader, but then slipped and fell while taking summit photos for another climber. All attempts to locate the missing man have failed to turn up any results.

Elsewhere, a guide named Ang Chhongba Sherpa fell to his death after losing his footing while collecting ropes after a successful summit bid on the 6119 meter (20,075 ft) Lobuche East. He was a member of a four-man squad that had topped out previously in the day and were making their way back down the mountain. The accident occurred at about 5800 meters (19,028 ft) and Chhongba's body was later recovered by a recovery team following a 20-hour search.

I'll continue to keep an eye on any developing stories from the Himalaya in the days ahead. Things are definitely getting quieter there, but there are still several teams pressing forward with their expeditions.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Kuriki Retreats – for Now

I'm hours away from getting on a plane for Spain, but before I set out I wanted to post one more quick update on the progress of Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki. Yesterday, when we checked in he had reached his high camp on Everest and was preparing to make a summit bid today. But now, we've learned that he has turned back and is descending the mountain, although he isn't quite ready to go home just yet.

Apparently, Nobu reached as high as 7400 meters (24,278 ft) before turning back. He was feeling strong and ready for the challenge of topping out on the world's highest peak, but encountered deep snow along the route that made it very difficult to make any progress. Exhausted from his efforts, he decided to turn back, and is now safely back down to 5800 meters (19,028 ft) and will descend back to ABC after he has rested there.

According to his Facebook page, Kuriki isn't giving up on his dream of a solo summit without oxygen however. He'll now rest up and regain his strength, while waiting for another solid weather window. After that, he'll weigh his options and hopefully have another go at the summit. That is likely to take place sometime next week at the earliest. Thankfully, he is said to be in good health, feeling strong, and in positive spirits. Perhaps we'll see him stand on top yet this season.

Finally, we do have an update from the Altitude Junkies today as well. After encountering heavy snow on the summit push last week, the team pulled the plug on their expedition and have now returned to Kathmandu. The group had hoped to summit on October 1, but a surprise storm dumped a meter of snow on the mountain, creating unstable conditions. After assessing the danger of avalanches, the team decided that it was in the best interest and safety of everyone if they left the mountain. Helicopters picked them up a few days back and with the entire squad now safe in the Nepali capital, they're all preparing to head home.

That's it for now. I'll keep an eye on any developments while I'm away. More updates soon.

Himalaya Fall 2016: Japanese Climber Begins Solo Summit Bid on Everest

While most of the big commercial teams are now winding down their expeditions for the autumn in the Himalaya, there are still some very interesting climbs to that are still ongoing. Not the least of these is Nobukazu Kuriki's attempt at a solo – without oxygen no less – along the North Side of Everest. Yesterday, we received word that the Japanese alpinist has now set off on his attempt at the summit, a place that has eluded him on five separate occasions in the past.

According to Kuriki's support team, he will climb along the Hornbein Couloir route in his attempt to reach the summit. There is some speculation that he will make that approach along what is known as the Supercouloir Route, which is a combination of a route opened by a Japanese team back in 1980 and the Hornbein. If all goes according to plan, he should potentially top out sometime in the next couple of days.

Kuriki himself has been updating his Facebook page with updates as he goes. His most recent post indicates that he has reached his high camp and will set off for the summit possibly late Friday or early Saturday morning local Nepali time. Weather conditions are reportedly quite good, and while there has been a lot of snow deposited along the route, Nobu appears to be making good time on his way up.

If you are familiar with Kuriki's previous attempts on Everest, you probably already know what a successful summit would mean to him. As already mentioned, he has made five previous attempts at a solo summit on the mountain, one of which ended in disaster. In 2012, the Japanese climber became stranded high on the South Side in Nepal, and had to be helped down by a rescue team. While he was stuck at altitude, he suffered severe frostbite to his fingers and toes. He ended up having nine of his fingers amputated, and yet he continues to return to the mountain on a regular basis to test his strength and determination. Hopefully this time his efforts will pay off. Hopefully he'll also get up and down safely.

Over on Dhaulagiri we're still waiting on word from the Altitude Junkies about their plans. The team has hoped to summit that mountain this past weekend, but turned back after finding unexpectedly deep snow at Camp 2. They had returned to Base Camp, where they were pondering their next move, but since that time there has been now word on their decision. It is possible they are waiting out the weather and hoping to launch another summit attempt in the next few days, but they could also be preparing to clean up BC and head home. For now, we'll just have to wait to see what happens.

That's it for today. I'll be keeping a close eye on Kuriki's progress and will post updates as we hear more.

Video: Climbing the South Face of Annapurna

In terms of pure altitude, Annapurna ranks 10th amongst the 8000 meter peaks, topping out at 8091 meters (26,545 ft). But when it comes to level of difficulty to climb, it ranks second to perhaps only K2. In fact, it is considered the most dangerous mountain on the planet by many thanks to its frequent avalanches and technical challenges, and yet it continues to hold an allure over many climbers who travel to its flanks each spring to have a go at the summit.

This video a short documentary about such a climb. In it, we join famed Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet as he attempts Annapurna back in 2012. The clips gives us some impressive shots of the mountain, and provides plenty of insights into what it takes to take on such a difficult and dangerous climb. If you're a fan of Himalayan expeditions to the big peaks, you'll definitely want to watch this short-film, which takes us along on one of the toughest climbs of all.

Adventure Blog Interview: Jeff Evans of Travel Channel's Everest Air

 Jeff Evans inside a rescue helicopter at Everest Base Camp

On Wednesday, October 26, the Travel Channel will debut an all-new show entitled "Everest Air." The six-part series, which was shot in Nepal this past spring, follows a high-altitude rescue team that provided medical assistance, support, and evacuations of climbers on and around the world's highest peak.

For two months during the 2016 climbing season, a dedicated and experienced team of Sherpas and helicopter pilots, led by experienced mountaineer and medic Jeff Evans, went to great lengths to rescue climbers, guides, and local Nepalis living in the Khumbu Valley alike. "Everest Air" will give us a glimpse of what those operations were like, and how Jeff and his squad impacted the lives of those they helped.

Recently, I had a chance to chat with Jeff to get his thoughts on the show, the Everest climbing seven, what it was like conducting high altitude medical operations, and a lot more. It was clear from our conversation that this wasn't just a television gig for him, but a chance to give back to both the mountaineering community and the Nepali people.

An adventurer and outdoor athlete, Jeff grew up in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina, where a love of the outdoors was instilled at a very young age. As he grew older, he immigrated west to Colorado where he attended college at UC Boulder where he studied medicine as he worked towards becoming a physician's assistant. While there he also continued to hone his climbing skills, which would later take him up some of the more famous routes in Yosemite, Rocky Mountain, and Joshua Tree National Parks. Later, he would branch into mountaineering as well, and eventually become a guide – and conducted search and rescue operations – on Denali in Alaska. In 2001, he even summited Everest along with blind climber Erik Weihenmayer, a long time friend that he would share many adventures with.

Last year, following the tragic earthquake that hit Nepal, Jeff returned to that country to help lend a hand. His experience as a search and rescue operator, along with his training as a medic, allowed him to play a vital role in the difficult days that came after that natural disaster. His deep love for the Nepali people, and a place that has given him so much throughout his climbing career, spurred him into action then, and was a major reason why he wanted to return once again this year to be a part of "Everest Air."

Working on a patient at EBC

"Initially, I was contacted to be a consultant for the show," he tells me when we spoke over the phone.  But after he inquired as to whether or not the production team had a medic on staff his role as part of the series evolved quickly. "They called me back the next day and asked if I could be on a plane to Los Angles. The rest is pretty much history," he says.

But before he officially took the gig, Jeff says he told the producers that if he was going to be a part of the team, they had to truly be of service on the mountain. He didn't want the show to revolve around rescuing rich, inexperienced mountaineers who found themselves out of their element on Everest. He wanted to have a meaningful impact beyond the privileged foreign climbers that showed up in large numbers in the Himalaya. He said that the show's creators agreed with his vision, and promised that they weren't going to Nepal to exploit Everest for ratings – it was a promise they stuck to throughout filming.

Jeff and the members of his team gathered in Kathmandu on April 1, and stayed in the country until June 1. During that time, they made 89 total flights and conducted 38 rescues, of which 24 of those operations were in support of locals, including assisting a Nepali woman who had suffered a miscarriage. For Jeff, this was exactly what he had hoped for – assisting mountaineers in need, but more importantly lending a hand to locals who were in dire need of medical attention.

Most of the ailments that the foreign climbers suffered typically revolved around altitude sickness, with both pulmonary and cerebral edema being very common. But, over the course of two months they also helped individuals who suffered other injuries as well, including a broken back, a bowel obstruction, and one person that had taken a 30-foot fall. "Had we not been there," Jeff says, "more people would have died on Everest this season."

Despite his experience as a medic and a climber, adjusting to flying through the Himalaya in a helicopter took some time. "At first I wasn't comfortable in the back of the helicopter," Jeff tells me. "They're just not meant to be flown at those altitudes," he adds. But over time, and as he got to know the talented pilots, he learned to trust them more. "By the end of production, I was getting along just fine."

Jeff with Bhaila Sherpa of Alpine Rescue Services

When I asked if Jeff had seen any of the completed episodes for "Everest Air" just yet, he tells me that he hasn't. But, when he was asked to do some post-production voice over work, he did get a look at the footage we'll all see on our television screens in a few weeks time. "It looks intense," he says, which should tell viewers something considering he was actually there when the events took place.

Jeff tells me that he is proud of how production went in Nepal, as he and his team stuck to the values they had hoped to adhere. Mainly, help those in need and make a difference in the local communities, something that will be evident when the show debuts. He also says that the entire production crew showed a great deal of respect for the individuals the medical team were assisting, something that runs counter to the reports we've heard from another television network crew that was operating on Everest at the same time.

With just six episodes to show us the entire spring climbing season, "Everest Air" is likely to be quite the action packed show. Obviously they won't be able to show us all of the rescues they conducted, but you can count on plenty of edge-of-your-seat moments for sure. When I asked Jeff if there were any particular rescues that stood out the most, he quickly rattled off a string of different situations that came to mind. In the end, he settled on the operations they conducted that helped the local Nepalis the most as the ones that he'll always cherish.

As viewers, we'll get to decide which of the team's adventures are the most entertaining and dramatic.  "Everest Air" will debut in three weeks time on the Travel Channel starting at 10 PM Eastern Time. Be sure to tune in or set your DVR's accordingly.

(All photos courtesy of Jeff Evans)

Himalaya Fall 2016: Climbers Make Controversial Speed Ascent of Cho Oyu

Amidst all of the other summits of the big mountains in Nepal this past week, there is one interesting story that has captured the attention of the mountaineering community and created a bit of a rift at the same time. This controversial expedition has caused some to reconsider how to train for their high altitude endeavors, while others find it to be unconventional enough to label it as "unfair means." Either way, it could be part of the future of climbing as others pick up on the approach.

Last Sunday, Adrian Ballinger – of Alpenglow Expeditions – and his partner Emily Harrington completed a successful summit of Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain on the planet at 8188 meters (26,884 ft). That in and of itself wasn't too unusual, as a number of teams topped out during a great summit window last weekend. But, Adrian and Emily did it just ten days after leaving their home in California, something that has been unheard of until now.

Typically on a big Himalayan peak it takes weeks to acclimatize to the altitude. Most climbers arrive in Kathmandu two months prior to their projected summit date. They then travel to their respective base camps, follow a set process for acclimatization by going up and down the mountain several times, and wait for good weather to make a summit bid after their bodies have acclimated to the thin air. That can sometimes take 4-6 weeks, depending on conditions and the climbing schedule.

But Adrian and Emily trained back home using altitude tents to simulate the conditions they would find on the mountain. These tents were able to create an environment that closely approximates the thin air of a big Himalayan peak, but it allows them to stay home, sleep in their own beds, and have the comforts that they are typically accustomed too. Meanwhile, a support team established a Base Camp for them on Cho Oyu, making it ready for their arrival.


Two weeks ago, Ballinger and Harrington left the U.S. to fly to Nepal and then traveled to Tibet to reach the mountain. By the time they reached BC, they were fit, acclimated, and pretty much ready to go. Once the weather window opened last week, they were able to safely climb to the top, taking two clients who had prepared in a similar fashion along with them.

This approach to acclimatizing at home and shortening the length of an expedition isn't new. In fact, it is something that Ballinger and Alpenglow have been working on for some time. The company's Everest expeditions are just a month in length thanks to this novel program, and now he has proven that he can shorten the time considerably on shorter peaks too. This allows clients to spend less time on a potentially dangerous mountain, while having to be away from home for fewer days too. That makes it vacation friendly as well. The downside? An Alpenglow expedition is considerably more expensive than the competition.

This new approach has rankled some in the mountaineering community in the past, but this new Cho Oyu speed ascent has many talking once again. For some, it is an innovative new way to climb in the Himalaya, while others feel like it is still a bit unproven and could be potentially risky. There are those who see it as a bit of "cheating" – for lack of a better word – as well. Those detractors tend to be old school climbers who often consider the use of bottled oxygen as a performance enhancing drug too.

Either way, this could be the future of mountaineering. Alpenglow will of course continue to pursue this novel training technique with the idea of attracting more clients who want to climb on the big peaks, but don't necessarily have two months to dedicate to that proposition. As Ballinger and his team continue to refine their methods, I'm sure more than a few other climbers and guides will be looking to employ similar techniques to aid their expeditions as well.

Video: Unclimbed - Reaching the Summit in the Himalaya (Part 4)

In the latest episode of the ongoing YouTube series from Discover Canada entitled "Unclimbed" we join mountaineers Gabriel Filippi and Elia Saikaly as they continue to train and prepare for their attempt on three never-before climbed peaks in the Himalaya this fall. In this clip, we learn how the two men prepare for the unexpected and the worst accidents imaginable, something that is a real possibility whenever you venture into the mountains. As usual, this episode provides us with some great insights into what life on an expedition is all about, and the amount of work and planning that goes into an attempt to summit a big peak.

If you haven't watched the previous three episodes in the series, I suggest you do so. They are all excellent, and well worth your time. You'll find them here: Episode 1 - Episode 2 - Episode 3

At the moment, Gabriel and Elia are in Nepal where they are joined by Pasang Kaji Sherpa, as they prepare for their first ascents. We'll be following their progress closely in the days ahead.

Meet the First Men to Fly Over Everest

If you've seen the big Hollywood film Everest that came out last year, you probably heard one of the characters deliver a line about how the team would be climbing at the same altitude as a commercial jetliner. Today, aircraft fly over or around the mountain on a regular basis, and no one thinks twice about it, but back in 1933 that still seemed like an impossible height to take an aircraft, particularly in an age when pressurized cabins were not necessarily the norm just yet. But two daring pilots made that flight, and lived to tell the tale. And they did so in a biplane that is down right ancient when compared to modern aircraft.

Mashable recently posted a story and some great  photos from that epic adventure that was called the Houston Everest Expedition because it was sponsored by a wealthy British philanthropist known as Lady Houston. She put up the money that allowed RAF pilot Douglas Douglas-Hamilton (aka Lord Clydesdale) and Colonel Stewart Blacker to attempt to fly a Westland PV-3 biplane over the top of the world's highest mountain, something that seemed incredibly dangerous at the time.

The two men took off from an airstrip near Purnea, India on the morning of April 3, 1933. They were accompanied by a second aircraft flown by Flight Lieutenant David McIntyre and a photographer named S.R. Bonnett. The second plane was there to record the event for posterity and get some fantastic images of this daring flight. The photographer did not disappoint.

As it turns out, the mission was a test for both pilots and aircraft, as there was indeed no pressurized cabins. The four men who were aboard the two planes had to rely on oxygen masks to keep their wits about them and help them breathe at such an altitude. On top of that, it was rare for any airplane to fly at such heights at that point in history, and the small biplane struggled in the thin air just as much as her crew.

When the two planes approached Everest, high winds caused even more problems, forcing the planes to drop 1500 feet (457 meters). But in the end, they were able to climb back up to 29,029 feet (8848 meters) and pass over the top of the summit for the very first time. All four men were given high accolades with Lord Clydesdale earning the Air Force Cross for his leadership. Bonnett's photos and video footage were also used to create an Academy Award winning film called Wings Over Everest as well. You can watch that film below.

The story of this expedition is an amazing one. Today we take it for granted that we fly at such a height, but back in 1933 it was almost as if they were trying to go to the moon. Fortunately, they proved that aircraft are sturdier than was believed and that man can go to higher heights that was previously believed. It would be 20 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay would actually climb to the summit, but this intrepid crew helped lead the way.

Himalaya Fall 2016: New Report Indicates 90% of Nepali Liaison Officers Never Report to Base Camp

Last week we posted a story about how none of the Nepali liaison officers assigned to Base Camp on Manaslu have reported for duty this year, despite teams paying a fee to cover their expenses and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation requiring them to be there. In all, there are 18 teams on that mountain this fall, and not one of them has seen their "LO" since they left Kathmandu. But now now, a new report from The Himalayan Times indicates that this isn't an isolated incident, and that 90% of all liaison officers never leave the capital or arrive at the mountain they are assigned to cover.

The role of liaison officer is to serve as a communications tool for climbing teams and to monitor activity on the mountains to ensure that everything is done according to regulation and in a safe manner. They are also there to coordinate rescue operations and assist in helping sick or injured climbers getting back to Kathmandu where they can be treated. But most of those duties are falling on the guiding companies, who coordinate those efforts themselves.

Nepali law states that an LO must be assigned to every climbing team heading out to a mountain, and that the liaison officer accompany that team to BC, where they will stay for the duration of the expedition. Unfortunately that isn't happening, despite the fact that teams pay $2000 in fees to pay for the LO's services. That money seems to be getting pocketed, with no real value being added for the climbers in anyway.

With several high profile disasters on Everest and other mountains in recent years, the Nepali government has vowed to make climbing in their country safer. Despite those claims however, there doesn't seem to be any significant strides being made in this area. The fact that after two deadly avalanches on Everest in 2014 and 2015 there still hasn't been a change in operations is quite telling. 80% of the LO's report that they've actually been to the mountains, although records indicate that they have never stepped foot out of Kathmandu.

As far as expedition leaders go, they have found that there is no sense in complaining or calling out a specific LO. If they do, they suddenly find it much more difficult to obtain climbing permits or they are charged fines for minor rules infractions which may or may not actually be true. In other words, if you report on the liaison officers you'll find working in Nepal is a much more difficult proposition than you first imagined.

In Nepal, the job of being a liaison officer carries some level of prestige, and most get appointed to the position as a political favor or after providing some level of service to the Prime Minister or other government officials. Because of the stature of the position, a culture has permeated throughout the LO's that allows them to get away with not doing their jobs, but still collecting the fees paid by climbers. For this to change, the Nepali government is going to have to force them to start following the letter of the law and reporting for duty as expected. Until then, Nepal can talk all it wants about how it is going to improve safety in the mountains. Having good communications and someone who actually does the job they are assigned would be good start.

Himalaya Fall 2016: More Summits on Cho Oyu and Manaslu, a Double Summit, and Death on Shisha

As expected, there was a lot of news out of the Himalaya this past weekend, where good weather allowed a number of teams to summit their respective mountains. It now appears as if most of the commercial teams are winding down their activities, and it has been a very successful couple of days.

We'll start on Manaslu, where The Himalayan Times now reports that 150 climbers summited over a two day period. 100 of those topped out last Friday, while another 50 completed their climbs on Saturday. Amongst them were the Seven Summit Treks team, which has the largest squad on the mountain this autumn. No small feat considered there were 17 total teams there this year. By all accounts, it was a well scheduled and orderly ascent and descent, with most of the teams now back in Base Camp and preparing to head back to Kathmandu.

Over on Cho Oyu we already knew that the Adventure Consultants had topped out at the end of last week, and the IMG team wasn't far behind. They summited yesterday, putting another 19 climbers on top, and bringing the total close to 40 on the Tibetan side of the mountain. The Adventure Consultants are packed and heading out for KTM today, but the IMG squad will likely rest a bit in BC and begin heading for home later this week.


Speaking of Cho Oyu, one climber performed an impressive feat on that mountain this weekend. Australian Rolfe Oostra managed to summit last Friday, then return to the top again the following day, pulling off a rare double-summit of the 6th highest peak on the planet. An experienced mountain guide, Oostra first went up the peak with two of his staff members, then guided two clients up the following day. That is quite a display of strength and fortitude to say the least.

The news wasn't quite so good on Dhaulagiri. After a few days of radio silence, the Altitude Junkies checked in over the weekend to report that they had aborted their summit bid. The plan was to top out on October 1, but once they reached Camp 1 they discovered very deep snow along the route. In fact, it was roughly a meter (3 ft) deep in parts, making it very tough going. The team has now returned to BC and is discussing what to do next. With more snow in the forecast, the expedition could be over without an opportunity to summit. We'll learn more soon.

Finally, some sad news from Shishapangma, where the Times is reporting that a Sherpa named Pemba who was climbing with the RMI team was struck and killed by an avalanche. The accident took place just below Camp 3 on the mountain as the Sherpa team was moving up with gear and supplies. No one else was injured, and all are safely back in BC at the moment. Our condolences to Pemba's friends and family.

That's all for today. More news as it warranted.